Brit-chic hair is having a moment. For inspiration look no further than Kate Moss circa 1994, the archetypical cool-girl and the ultimate harbinger of ‘London girl’ hair. Or Keira Knightley in her Pirates of the Caribbean: The Curse of the Black Pearl era.
It describes an artfully messy and tousled head of hair that has air-dried into a wavy mass before being haphazardly thrown into an up do. Bonus points if hair is side-parted and looks a little humid, as if you've just stepped inside from the rain.
Dreamy, undone styles are normally associated with nonchalant French girls but effortless off-duty hair is also like a national past-time in the UK.
Typically '90s London girl hair is soft. In other words, it is the complete antithesis to straightened strands or Hollywood-siren hair with it's perfectly coiffed, geometric waves. But it's also not so undone that it veers into grunge or Indie sleaze territory, which relies on puffs of dry shampoo scrunched into the hair to make it look ‘lived in’.
“The '90s London girl hair aesthetic is a look that seems unconsidered but is actually the opposite,” says hair stylist Neil Moodie. “It is a little unkempt but still has a sexiness to it. The parting is natural, but not a forced sharp line. It is also off-centre, but not too side-y because that would make it too glamorous. The texture is what I would call day-old hair – clean but like she's slept on it for a night.”
In terms of the cut, Neil advises hair should be a little longer than shoulder length with some face-framing layers. “There should also be longer layers running through the interior and the length is point cut, so it looks blunt but still has texture,” he adds.
A detangling primer such as Pureology Color Fanatic 21 Spray is also recommended, whether you are blow-drying curly or straight hair, as is using your fingers as a comb.
'90s London girl hair is even making a comeback on the red carpet. At the recent Olivier Awards, Jodie Comer wore her hair in an undone bun with a ubiquitous deep side fringe that didn't compete for attention with her sculptural Alexander McQueen dress.
“I kept Jodie's hair in a f***ed-up chignon to show her gorgeous neck, and to keep her young and fresh,” explains hair stylist Sam McNight, who created the look. “If the hair gets too perfect it can be a bit Lady.”
Better still, Jodie's '90s London girl updo requires little styling. Sam applied his Hair By Sam McKnight Cool Girl Superlift before blow-drying for added root lift. Inject some movement into the mid lengths and ends by giving them a slight bend using curling tongs. Mist with a texture spray and “leave out however much hair you want to frame your face, then tie the remainder in a pony just below the occipital bone,” says Sam. “Twist into a bun, leaving the ends out. Boost with hairspray and let the breeze do its natural thing."
For more from Fiona Embleton, GLAMOUR's Acting Associate Beauty Director, follow her on @fiembleton.
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